🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.